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I am Dan the Metalworking Man man I live and breathe anything to do with Metalworking and Manufacturing. I have cutting fluid pulsing through my veins. I am an animal who loves to work with his hands and create things with Metal! I am here to write about Tooling and Supplies and to give my opinion on Tools and life. I have lots to say and hope you enjoy my blog. Sincerely, Dan the Metalworking Man
Thursday, February 14, 2013
#baileigh industrial dealers
Looking for #Baileigh Industrial Dealers
Check out Penn Tool Co.
Just click the logo for huge savings on Baileigh Industrial Machinery
Check out Penn Tool Co.
Just click the logo for huge savings on Baileigh Industrial Machinery
Tuesday, February 12, 2013
#Baileigh Industrial
Aside from competing in Jiu Jitsu, Dan the #Metalworking Man is fond of bending metal.
I find that #Baileigh Industrial has some really good machinery.
Take a look at some I found at great prices HERE
Enjoy!
Dan
I find that #Baileigh Industrial has some really good machinery.
Take a look at some I found at great prices HERE
Enjoy!
Dan
Tuesday, May 22, 2012
#Measuring Tool Tips
Order #Mahr Tools at http://www.lighttoolsupply.com
• Providing the indicator has been checked for calibration, repeatability and free running, look over the way it is clamped to the test set, comparator frame or gage. Any detectable shake or looseness should be corrected.
• Check for looseness of play in comparator posts, bases, clamping handles, fine adjustment mechanisms and anvils. It is easy, for instance, to rely on the accuracy of a comparator and find afterwards that the reference anvil was not securely clamped down.
• When using portable or bore gages, be sure to check adjustable or changeable contacts to be sure there is no looseness of play.
• If gage backstops are to be used and relied on, make sure they are also clamped tight in the proper location.
• The sensitive contact points on many portable gages and bench comparators are tipped with wear-resisting tungsten carbide, sapphire or diamond inserts. Test these tips to see that they haven’t become loose in previous use. Also, examine them under a glass. If they are cracked, chipped or badly scored, their surface conditions may prevent accurate or repeatable readings. They may even scratch the work.
• If opposing anvils are supposed to be flat or parallel, check them with the wire or ball test. By positioning a precision wire or ball between anvils, you can read parallelism on the indicator simply by moving the wire/ball front to back and side to side.
• One of the easiest chores to neglect is regular cleaning of indicating gages and bench comparators. Yet, as we have often noted in this column, dirt is the number one enemy of accuracy. Dirt, dust, grit, chips, grease, scum and coolant will interfere with accuracy of gage blocks, indicators, and precision comparators. Clean all such instruments thoroughly at each use. Also, be sure to rustproof exposed iron or steel surfaces.
• Take the same steps to ensure the reliability of master discs and master rings as you would for gage blocks. Examine them for nicks and scratches and the scars of rough handling. And handle them as you would gage blocks, as well. After all, they are designed to provide equal precision.
• Finally, if you see a sudden shift in your process during the day, these same basic steps should be part of your troubleshooting routine. And, in this situation, don’t automatically assume your gage is correct just because it has a calibration sticker. Strange things do happen and you will do well to investigate all possibilities especially the ones that habit can make us overlook.
GAGING ACCURACY: GETTING READY ONE STEP AT A TIME
George Schuetz, Mahr Federal
Familiarity
may not always breed contempt, but in precision gaging, it can
certainly lead to error. It happens when we do what we have done a
thousand times before, but do it without thinking. We are in a hurry.
We grab a gage and take a measurement without stopping to go through
those preliminary checks and procedures we know will assure accurate
results. We forget that the methodology of measurement is as important
as the gage itself. As a machine operator, you must assume much of the
responsibility for gaging accuracy. Whenever a gage has not been in
frequent use, make sure you follow these basic steps:George Schuetz, Mahr Federal
• Providing the indicator has been checked for calibration, repeatability and free running, look over the way it is clamped to the test set, comparator frame or gage. Any detectable shake or looseness should be corrected.
• Check for looseness of play in comparator posts, bases, clamping handles, fine adjustment mechanisms and anvils. It is easy, for instance, to rely on the accuracy of a comparator and find afterwards that the reference anvil was not securely clamped down.
• When using portable or bore gages, be sure to check adjustable or changeable contacts to be sure there is no looseness of play.
• If gage backstops are to be used and relied on, make sure they are also clamped tight in the proper location.
• The sensitive contact points on many portable gages and bench comparators are tipped with wear-resisting tungsten carbide, sapphire or diamond inserts. Test these tips to see that they haven’t become loose in previous use. Also, examine them under a glass. If they are cracked, chipped or badly scored, their surface conditions may prevent accurate or repeatable readings. They may even scratch the work.
• If opposing anvils are supposed to be flat or parallel, check them with the wire or ball test. By positioning a precision wire or ball between anvils, you can read parallelism on the indicator simply by moving the wire/ball front to back and side to side.
• One of the easiest chores to neglect is regular cleaning of indicating gages and bench comparators. Yet, as we have often noted in this column, dirt is the number one enemy of accuracy. Dirt, dust, grit, chips, grease, scum and coolant will interfere with accuracy of gage blocks, indicators, and precision comparators. Clean all such instruments thoroughly at each use. Also, be sure to rustproof exposed iron or steel surfaces.
• Take the same steps to ensure the reliability of master discs and master rings as you would for gage blocks. Examine them for nicks and scratches and the scars of rough handling. And handle them as you would gage blocks, as well. After all, they are designed to provide equal precision.
• Finally, if you see a sudden shift in your process during the day, these same basic steps should be part of your troubleshooting routine. And, in this situation, don’t automatically assume your gage is correct just because it has a calibration sticker. Strange things do happen and you will do well to investigate all possibilities especially the ones that habit can make us overlook.
Thursday, October 20, 2011
Baileigh Industrial Double Pinch Angle Roll Machine - R-H65
#Baileigh Industrial Double Pinch Angle Roll Machine - #R-H65
Order at Light Tool Supply here http://www.lighttoolsupply.com/cBaileigh-Double-Pinch-Angle
Baileigh Double Pinch Angle Roll Machine - R-H65
Ring and Angle Roll Bender
Baileigh Industrial is proud to introduce its newest ring and angel roll bender, the R-H65. The R-H65 roll bender is built using the same high quality components as the rest of Baileigh Industrial's double pinch roll benders. The R-H65 has a capacity of 2" Schedule 40 pipe and is the perfect size for most fabrication shops. The R-H65 angle roll is considered a double pinch roll bender since the top roll is fixed and the two bottom rolls operate on independently controlled hydraulic cylinders with encoders that communicate to the digital readout for exact positioning of each roll. The advantages of the double pinch are that it allows for pre-bending and post-bending of material that saves production time and material waste.
The R-H65 roll bender features an extremely ridged frame made of heavy steel plate. The plate is then electro welded for further structural strength allowing for no flex at full capacity. A large 6.25HP hydraulic motor handles all the bending functions on this angle bender. The Baileigh industrial R-H65 angle bending roll comes standard with an industrial grade transmission that drives all three rolls and comes standard with a set of segment rolls for doing all types of shapes and profiles. Of course, if your job requires specialized tooling, Baileigh industrial can handle that as well.
Order at Light Tool Supply here http://www.lighttoolsupply.com/cBaileigh-Double-Pinch-Angle
Baileigh Double Pinch Angle Roll Machine - R-H65
Ring and Angle Roll Bender
Baileigh Industrial is proud to introduce its newest ring and angel roll bender, the R-H65. The R-H65 roll bender is built using the same high quality components as the rest of Baileigh Industrial's double pinch roll benders. The R-H65 has a capacity of 2" Schedule 40 pipe and is the perfect size for most fabrication shops. The R-H65 angle roll is considered a double pinch roll bender since the top roll is fixed and the two bottom rolls operate on independently controlled hydraulic cylinders with encoders that communicate to the digital readout for exact positioning of each roll. The advantages of the double pinch are that it allows for pre-bending and post-bending of material that saves production time and material waste.
The R-H65 roll bender features an extremely ridged frame made of heavy steel plate. The plate is then electro welded for further structural strength allowing for no flex at full capacity. A large 6.25HP hydraulic motor handles all the bending functions on this angle bender. The Baileigh industrial R-H65 angle bending roll comes standard with an industrial grade transmission that drives all three rolls and comes standard with a set of segment rolls for doing all types of shapes and profiles. Of course, if your job requires specialized tooling, Baileigh industrial can handle that as well.
Tuesday, October 18, 2011
#Caliper Tips and Tricks
Order #Mahr Federal Tools at Light Tool Supply
http://www.lighttoolsupply.com/Mahr
We are all familiar with the versatility of calipers—Vernier, dial, or digital. On the shop floor, in the inspection room, or even now for the home hobbyist, the caliper is a fast and easy-to-use tool to make basic length measurements. But while the caliper is a versatile tool, it is not one of the most precise. Skill is required for positioning and interpreting measurement results. As the user develops his "feel" for the tool, his measurement results become more consistent.
Even a digital caliper—which takes most of the guesswork out of reading the measured value—still requires skill on the part of the user to apply the tool properly to the dimension being measured. The jaws of the caliper must be square or perpendicular to the part. They need to be held firmly against the part, but not to the point of deflecting them. The part should be kept as close as possible to the frame of the measurement tool.
Here's a basic three-step method for using a caliper:
1) Close the caliper so that the jaws are together, and "zero" out the display. Then open and close the jaws a couple of times, checking for repeat of the zero setting. If there are a "couple of counts" of difference, re-zero and try again until you are convinced that there is a good zero condition.
2) Measure the part. Here is where the operator influence comes in. Make sure the caliper is parallel with the line of the measurement, i.e., that the jaws of the caliper are square to the surface being measured. On a part with parallel surfaces this looks fairly easily, but on an outside diameter more care is needed. As with checking the zero repeat, check the measurement by repeating it a couple of times to ensure the measurement is good.
3) Once you are satisfied with the measurement, remove the part and go back and check zero. Just as when setting zero, make sure it repeats. An inadvertent zeroing during measurement or dirt may show a non-repeating condition
As shown in figures 1–4, almost everyone who has ever used a caliper is familiar with the four basic checks that the gage is designed to do: outside, inside, depth and step.
However, digital calipers also have the capability to make compound measurements. Since an electronic digital caliper can be zeroed at any point, you can use it to do some of the arithmetic required for calculating the results of a measurement. For example, the following procedure can be used to measure the center distance between two bores of equal diameter:
1) Use the inside jaws to measure the diameter of one of the bores (figure 5). Before you remove the caliper from the bore, press the button to zero the caliper while it is set to the diameter of the hole.
2) Still using the inside jaws, measure the distance between the far surfaces of the two bores (figure 6). The caliper reading will be the distance between the centers of the two bores.
Like any measurement tool, the caliper must be treated with care and respect. Don't use it for purposes for which it was never intended (such as prying things apart). Wipe it clean after use, and don't throw it on the workbench. For dial calipers, be particularly wary of dirt which can accumulate on the rack, throwing measurements off and ultimately damaging the indicator. Store a caliper in its case. If it's going to be there for a while, apply a thin coat of oil to the jaws to inhibit corrosion.
Check the caliper often for wear, as well as burrs and scratches on the jaws and contacting surfaces. A simple way to do this is to pass a master disc along the jaws while inspecting for wear or taper. Like any measurement tool, a caliper should be calibrated at least once a year, more often when use is heavy or there are multiple users of the same instrument.
Calipers are very versatile tools, but they are not right for every job. As we have noted many times, it is critical to pick the correct hand tool or gage for the job. As tolerances get tighter and tighter, selecting the correct gage becomes very important. Digital calipers typically read in 0.001" or 0.0005" units. So if the tolerance is tighter than 0.002", a micrometer (or some other, higher accuracy tool) should be used instead.
Figure 1. << Outside Diameter >>
Figure 2. << Inside Diameter >>
Figure 3. << Step >>
Figure 4. << Depth >>
Figure 5. << Step 1 - Measure Diameter then Zero Caliper >>
Figure 6. << Step 2 – Center Distance of two bores of equal size >>
http://www.lighttoolsupply.com/Mahr
Caliper Tips and Tricks
George Schuetz, Mahr Federal Inc.
George Schuetz, Mahr Federal Inc.
Even a digital caliper—which takes most of the guesswork out of reading the measured value—still requires skill on the part of the user to apply the tool properly to the dimension being measured. The jaws of the caliper must be square or perpendicular to the part. They need to be held firmly against the part, but not to the point of deflecting them. The part should be kept as close as possible to the frame of the measurement tool.
Here's a basic three-step method for using a caliper:
1) Close the caliper so that the jaws are together, and "zero" out the display. Then open and close the jaws a couple of times, checking for repeat of the zero setting. If there are a "couple of counts" of difference, re-zero and try again until you are convinced that there is a good zero condition.
2) Measure the part. Here is where the operator influence comes in. Make sure the caliper is parallel with the line of the measurement, i.e., that the jaws of the caliper are square to the surface being measured. On a part with parallel surfaces this looks fairly easily, but on an outside diameter more care is needed. As with checking the zero repeat, check the measurement by repeating it a couple of times to ensure the measurement is good.
3) Once you are satisfied with the measurement, remove the part and go back and check zero. Just as when setting zero, make sure it repeats. An inadvertent zeroing during measurement or dirt may show a non-repeating condition
As shown in figures 1–4, almost everyone who has ever used a caliper is familiar with the four basic checks that the gage is designed to do: outside, inside, depth and step.
However, digital calipers also have the capability to make compound measurements. Since an electronic digital caliper can be zeroed at any point, you can use it to do some of the arithmetic required for calculating the results of a measurement. For example, the following procedure can be used to measure the center distance between two bores of equal diameter:
1) Use the inside jaws to measure the diameter of one of the bores (figure 5). Before you remove the caliper from the bore, press the button to zero the caliper while it is set to the diameter of the hole.
2) Still using the inside jaws, measure the distance between the far surfaces of the two bores (figure 6). The caliper reading will be the distance between the centers of the two bores.
Like any measurement tool, the caliper must be treated with care and respect. Don't use it for purposes for which it was never intended (such as prying things apart). Wipe it clean after use, and don't throw it on the workbench. For dial calipers, be particularly wary of dirt which can accumulate on the rack, throwing measurements off and ultimately damaging the indicator. Store a caliper in its case. If it's going to be there for a while, apply a thin coat of oil to the jaws to inhibit corrosion.
Check the caliper often for wear, as well as burrs and scratches on the jaws and contacting surfaces. A simple way to do this is to pass a master disc along the jaws while inspecting for wear or taper. Like any measurement tool, a caliper should be calibrated at least once a year, more often when use is heavy or there are multiple users of the same instrument.
Calipers are very versatile tools, but they are not right for every job. As we have noted many times, it is critical to pick the correct hand tool or gage for the job. As tolerances get tighter and tighter, selecting the correct gage becomes very important. Digital calipers typically read in 0.001" or 0.0005" units. So if the tolerance is tighter than 0.002", a micrometer (or some other, higher accuracy tool) should be used instead.
Figure 1. << Outside Diameter >>
Figure 2. << Inside Diameter >>
Figure 3. << Step >>
Figure 4. << Depth >>
Figure 5. << Step 1 - Measure Diameter then Zero Caliper >>
Figure 6. << Step 2 – Center Distance of two bores of equal size >>
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